The Girls’ Guide to Cartagena, Colombia
What a trip.
I just spent 4 nights in Cartagena with my sister and two best friends. We’re in our early 40’s, we love an adventure, but we’re also looking for amazing dinners, a lux pool, and views for miles. Cartagena delivered. I’m going to share our itinerary here, complete with links to our favorite places. You’re going to love it.
Day One: We departed O’Hare Airport in Chicago, had a quick layover in Miami, and arrived to the airport in Cartagena in the early afternoon. After a pretty seamless stop at immigration, we had our bags and we were on our way. This was our first trip to Cartagena and we were a little unsure about transportation, so the staff at the Hyatt Regency Cartagena (10/10 recommend) had arranged a driver to pick us up. This was a nice bonus, but next time, I’d just grab a white taxi from the rank. The ride to the Hyatt was less than 20 minutes and we caught our first glimpse of the sea. We decided to spend our first afternoon and evening enjoying this gorgeous hotel. We headed straight for the infinity pool, ordered a few cocktails and let our nervous systems start to unwind. Dinner that night was at Kokaú Signature, (at the Hyatt) and was a delight. The staff were so attentive, the food was prepared with care, and it was just an elevator ride from our beds. After a long day of traveling, an early night was just what we needed.
Day Two: We started our day with breakfast at the Regency Club, then headed downstairs to meet our private guide, Issac at Explora Cartagena. 12 out of 10. maybe even 13 out of 10. Issac and our driver picked us up in an huge, air conditioned van (we were so grateful for this later in the day) and started our tour by orienting us to the geography and taking us to a stunning viewpoint in Bocagrande. He helped us understand the development of Cartagena in recent times, and how the city has changed over the years. He also spoke about the regions of Colombia, the stereotypes that tourists come equipped with, and his mission to share the true nature of this magical place (He’s also a phenomenal photographer!).
Our next stop was the Getsemaní neighborhood, a place so full of art, culture and stories that we could have stayed all day. This community has been through ups and downs, and has evolved into a stunning, colorful, lively jumble of picture perfect alleyways and hidden treasures. I’ll let Issac tell you the rest. We met the former mayor of Cartagena, absorbed incredible street art and Issac bought us a local homemade popsicle, then we were on our way to the Castle of San Felipe de Barajas.
Entrance was included in the price of our private tour, but if you’re going on your own admission is about $7USD. Issac explained the historical significance of the fortress, told stories of the heros that fought here, and walked us to the top of this walled beauty. It was a climb, but the views were worth it. Once we made our way down, we stopped at a corner store where Issac bought us a Costeñita, a tiny Colombian beer, perfect for quenching the thirst we worked up climbing the fortress! After cooling down in the air-conned van for a few minutes, it was time to visit The Walled City.
This is the Cartagena you’ve seen in photos, the image in your head, the most postcard-perfect neighborhood come-to-life. We wandered up a street so pretty it almost didn’t seem real, learning about the history of the buildings, the families that lived here, and the meaning of the architecture. Issac shared so much knowledge in such a short time, but it always felt natural and engaging. We stopped to gawk the cathedral and sat down in the square to hear stories of the surrounding buildings. A street perfomer pressed play on a boom box and started a salsa dance like I’ve never seen! Next thing I knew I was dancing along, grateful for those salsa lessons I took in Havana last spring! We finished the tour at an Emerald Shop owned by Issac’s friend and mentor. Did you know Colombia is one if the world’s top producer of emeralds? We got a quick lesson on Emeralds, tried on some stunning pieces, and a few of us took home a glowing green souvenir. It was time so say goodbye, so Issac brought us back to our hotel and after all the hugs and the photos we parted ways with promises to visit again.
Late afternoon poolside was starting to become a ritual, and that was okay with us. Infinity pool. Cocktails. Sunset. Yes. Please. The staff at the hotel took care of all our dinner reservations for the stay and tonight we headed by Uber to Restaurante Candé in the Walled City. It was a perfect introduction to Cartagena nightlife. Incredible food, cool atmosphere, live music, costumed dancers and entertainers. It was a multi-sensory experience. After dinner we Ubered to Café Havana in Getsemaní. There was a small cover ($10 or so) but more than worth it for the live 10+ member band, dancers and singers. A few cervezas, laughing til we cried, and music for days. A perfect night.
Day Three: Breakfast at the Regency Club again (I could get used to this!) and it was time to revisit the Walled City, this time with our bearings and with a mission. To shop. We grabbed an Uber back to the dropoff point from yesterday, the Heredia Theater. It’s the perfect place to start your stroll up Calle de Don Sancho, a picture-perfect street lined with pretty balconies, flowering vines, and sweet little shops. We stopped in a few souvenir shops along the route and wandered down a side street to see what we could find. We found a treasure. Casa Abba is a gallery, a collection of boutiques, and a visual wonderland. The tiny storefront opened into room upon room of delights. We bought a few pieces of art and jewelry, chatted to the artists, and soaked in the atmosphere. All that shopping made us thirsty, so we popped next door to the utterly charming Casa Bohême for a few Coseñitas in the breezy courtyard. It was a perfect pause in our day. Just as we stepped back on the sidewalk, the skies opened. We were looking for just a few more handcrafted pieces to take home, and a bit of shelter in the storm, so we ducked into Entremanos Artesanias Colombianas and couldn’t have been luckier. This shop was full of handmade art, woven baskets, beaded papier mache, the softest scarves and the loveliest staff. We all left with some new treasures. The rain was letting up, so we made our way back to the square by the Theater and called our uber. Afternoon pool time awaits.
After a few hours poolside it was time to get ready for dinner, and tonight’s dinner was something really special. We had reservations at Celele, one of the hottest spots in the most unassuming buildings of Getsemaní. Words won’t do it justice. It was by far one of the best meals I’ve ever had. They offer a tasting menu with the best of their kitchen (recommend!) or alternatively, choose a few dishes to share and be sure to try as much as you can. The flower salad was next level and the staff were perfection. Every course came with a thoughtful explanation of ingredients, origins and preparation. The presentation was exquisite. I can’t actually say enough good things about this gem. Please go here. After dinner we wandered into Morena for an Aperol Spritz, some top-class people watching and another episode of laughing til we pee our pants. Another perfect end to a perfect day.
Day Four: We had decided to end our trip by slowing down and giving ourselves a chance to truly relax after a few days of fun and adventure. Well-this was still going to be a LITTLE bit of adventure. The Makani Beach Club is a resort that offers a VIP day pass and let’s you totally unplug. But first, you have to get there. We headed to the dock in Bocagrande to board a tiny boat that would take us 20 minutes across the water. We had to wade out into the water a bit to climb aboard, but the crew were super helpful. It was a fast, windy, slightly choppy crossing, but we felt safe and had a great laugh. When we arrived at the Beach Club we climbed out, met our hosts, and set up for the day on our poolside beds. The infinity pool gave off the most peaceful vibes, the music was chill, and the staff were attentive. Our package included a pitcher of sangria, a three course lunch, and some fresh pressed juices. We had been a little worried that we might get bored stuck on an island all day, but I could have stayed for a year. We drifted between the pool, the loungers and the beach, reading books, telling stories, and soaking in these last opportunities to exhale. Lunch was delicious. The sangria was refreshing. It was exactly what we needed.
After a bouncy boat trip back, we had a few hours to rest before heading out for our final dinner. The hotel staff had made us a reservation at El Burlador and it did not disapoint. We chose to order several plates to share and were rewarded. Ceviche, pork belly, croquettes, carpaccio, chef’s kiss. We wanted to be the girls who were up for a night on the town, but in reality, we were the girls who had an amazing day in the sun, a gorgeous dinner, and were ready for a good night’s sleep. We held our heads high and went back to the hotel to share some wine in our suite and enjoy our last night at the Hyatt.
Day Five: We finally made it to Kokaú (the main restautant at the Hyatt) for breakfast on our last morning. We got to say goodbye to all the staff who had taken such good care of us, and even meet the General Manager who wanted to be sure our stay had been exquisite (it was!). We savored the hot coffee, fresh pastries and the best scrambled eggs before packing our bags to head home. We gave ourselves the recommended three hours before an international flight, especially because some of us needed to visit the tax-back counter at the airport. In reality, we finished this and got through security really quickly and had a lot of time on our hands. The Cartagena airport is tiny, with a few shops and a food stand surrounding rows of plastic seating. We thought it was going to be a long (and hot) few hours, but then we noticed a VIP lounge desk. For just $30 per person we were able to access the air conditioned lounge with comfy seating, snacks and drinks. It was a nice treat for ourselves before a long travel day. Before we knew it, it was time to board. We had a long layover in Miami and arrived home (after a long delay) to Chicago around midnight. We were exhausted but replenished. This was a trip of a lifetime.
TIPS:
Use Uber or White Taxis, steer clear of the Yellow Taxis. Bocagrande to The Walled City is only about $6!
Make reservations ahead of time or ask your hotel for help if you want a table at the best restaurants.
Afternoons are HOT. We liked going out in the morning and spending the afternoon cooling off at the pool before going out again at night.
Beer and cocktails are cheap, wine is expensive! Plan accordingly.
Cartagena is safe, just keep your wits about you, stay in well populated areas, and keep your phone charged.
Engage with the locals! Have a chat, hear a story, buy handmade treasures. Everyone we met was so lovely.
If the street rappers start serenading you, don’t engage unless you want to tip! This is how they make a living.
Set down your preconceived notions, forget the stereotypes, and be open to this experience. You’re going to love it.
